06. Day Two of the Walk: Tintern to Monmouth

Fabulous night of sleep, a solid 8 hours (no surprise there). Up nice and early for salmon and eggs on toast. The Wild Hare also made me up a lunch for the journey, cheese and chutney on brown bread and some crisps and fruit. It was a bit misty as I set out, but all the more beautiful for that.

One of my favorite photos of the entire 3-month trip.

Unlike some places along the WVW, the resumption of the path was unambiguous from Tintern. My guidebook said 10.25 miles to Monmouth, where I planned to spend two nights. I was very curious to see what my Fitbit would say I walked, since 5.75 turned into almost 10 miles on Day 1! At any rate, the Cicerone book said my walk would be pretty benign to Monmouth, and I was more than prepared for any understatement.

Pretty little churchyard.
I was happy to be hiking along the riverbank, as I had been fantasizing about just this view. Up until now, I had either been in woods or far above the river.
Old Station, Tintern
Lots of fun art along the path at the Old Station.
Salmon and otter carving
The Circle of Legends. Info cadged from another WordPress blog LOL!
Not a video, since I cannot post ’em here and it was a mistake anyway. Pardon the arrow, enjoy the doggo.

Climbing away from the river and up into the hills, the woods and flora again took me to magical places.

A perfect path
Views of the Valley

The path took me through the delightfully-named Cuckoo Woods, wherein I neither saw nor heard a cuckoo but was charmed nonetheless by a neatly camouflaged European Robin.

Hello little robin! No, you cannot have my sandwich.
I emerged from the Woods in the little village of Pen-y-fan. Was that a bustle in the hedgerow I just heard?
The first dwelling I had seen all day. Not sure if it was habitable, but it sure was quaint.
Descending from the woods and village, back down to the river. There was a waterfall in the village, but the descent looked a bit treacherous. I don’t do treacherous.
And it was much like this for some distance. Fine by me!
I really *wanted* to stop at this Inn in Redbrook for a pint, but it appeared I had a pretty long walk ahead of me to get to Monmouth. Passed it by, sad trombone.
From the bridge at Redbrook.
People love their Wye Valley Walk! What a joy to see public art.
Old railway viaduct bridge outside Monmouth
Duke of Beaufort Bridge, still a footpath (but I didn’t cross it)

It was a long slog into Monmouth town! Across several fields I tromped, stopping to consult my OS map frequently due to paths crossing. Finally, I gained the town! and sure enough — Fitbit had me at a good 5 miles more than the guidebook stated.

The last bit of elevation on this leg boosted me into outer space!!
My just desserts, earned.

This pub was downstairs from my room at King’s Head Inn, originally a 17th century coaching inn. It is run by an outfit called Wetherspoons, which purchases historic pubs and inns and does a fine job updating them. The pubs are all quite serviceable, and the rooms very reasonably-priced. Since I was going to be in Monmouth for two days, this was a perfect place to stay.

But I still had homework to do!

2 May, 2022


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